![]() I should point out that the Dash is a fantastic bike, an absolute blast to ride. I'm bringing it into my LBS tomorrow and hoping for the best on warranty coverage. If I'm not mistaken you hold the +/- buttons for 10 secs, correct? I've done that but it doesn't seem to do anything. So after all of that, what I would really like to know is whether I have a battery that is fully performing up to the manufacturers specifications.I'm only seeing error code 1, I haven't gotten the diagnostics to work. 36 miles and 6.2? 47 miles and 8.2? 60 miles and a hit of crack? Some were some suggesting their meter would tell them they have an estimated 47 miles in power level 1! Some suggested their belief (to be taken with a grain of salt) that they could achieve 60 miles on a single fully charged battery. The estimated range reported by others also greatly exceeded my observations. But then I shifted my focus to the issue that really drives the concern of everyone on all sides of this market: Range. OK, but that's just a screwy estimator, should not be relied upon, and ought to be removed from the diagnostic tool set. I then began scouring the posts and noted that was the lowest value reported on this site. My obsession, I mean attention, was then turned to the troublesome diagnostic tool Number 9 - the dreaded amp-o-meter. I 'futzed around' with for a bit and must have hit upon something because it sprang to life, teaching me that such testing and repair ought not be done in one's kitchen. It revealed that one of the brake mounted engine cut offs was not functioning. ![]() Tried unsuccessfully to place a tech support call from the office, then ran the on board diagnostics once I got home home. I got up the next day to ride to work and I couldn't get the motor to engage so I drove in. And the Dash was the perfect traveling companion. The City has done a great job with bicycle infrastructure from Harlem to Battery Park. I traversed half a dozen bridges including the George Washington, the Brooklyn, the Manhattan and the Williamsburg. I visited all of the hipness that is Brooklyn. Is this a known or acknowledged symptom or issue?Īs the story continues, I put 90+ miles on the bike exploring NYC over a three days of a very long weekend. My shop confirmed the vibration but was unable to determine the source. Others report similar sensations in other posts. Under power it does seem to relate somewhat to the motor' operation. I also feel it through the pedals under power. I feel it simply pushing the bike across a flat surface without engaging the motor. The sensation is one of an intermittent, pulsing or cycling vibration. I ride a lot, but I have not been this excited about getting on the bike in a long time. Let me state up front that I am a very, very, very happy owner of a 2014 Dash. Part of our part number on the Peak chain is "X9ERB". It very well may be the same high-torque type. I have to apologize, I have no current listing for the stock chain on our Dash. Our Peak, being a Mid-Drive does have a specific chain to handle super-human watts, where on the Dash this isn't the case, so that strength chain is not needed. 290 may work as a thread lock better, but DT may be more truable later down the road. You can use DT Spoke Freeze or Loc-Tite 290. It's very unlikely you can tension the spokes so much that you'll crack the hub. Right side spokes are always much flatter and shorter, where the left side is 2mm or so longer and more angled between the flange and the rim. It is simply to accomodate the stack of gears on the right side, but keep the rim on the centerline of the bike. The "Dish" of the rear wheel, (and front) is very normal in bicycles. Of course all have the new extra strong magnet bonding inside! There may be a sticker difference only, to match with the 15 bike graphics. Is this the only chain available for the Dash as of now?Īll good questions! The 2015 Dash wheel and the 2014 is the same. One last question (please).Shea replaced his chain 1650 miles and the 2015 chain looks to be the same that is on our Peak (specially hardened for torque). Is there a preferred method to true this wheel? Over-tighten in general and the a spoke my break the hub body, expensive repair. Over-tighten that side and trouble will ensue as you lose dish and bring up the relative tension of the drive side. You'll notice that the drive side (cassette) is tighter than the brake disc side to dish the beastly thing. ![]() I'll just come out and say it.were the warrantied motors/wheels supplied with the 'upgraded'(?) 2015 version style wheels and if not.should we be switching to the 2015 style wheels (OEM only available?) should our 2014 versions become damaged or end up have the 'truing' issues that Shea, HH and others have described in detail(?).Īlso, Shea described the following method of adjusting his spokes: ".
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